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Fruit Fly Culture


Culturing D. Melanogaster

1) Place 1/4th cup FNT's Optimized Culture Media into a 32 oz Insect Culture Container (alternatively, flies can be cultured in mason jars using a coffee filter as the lid).

2) Add 1 tbs apple cider vinegar (an optional mold preventative) plus 1/3rd cup filtered, room temperature water.

3) Once mixture is firm, sprinkle several 10-20 grains of active dry yeast over the media. The yeast will help process the media and will out-compete molds growing on the surface.

4) Add 20-30 flies. Using the first flies to hatch from a culture to seed a new culture helps maintain the colony by selecting for the healthiest flies.

• Depending on temperature and moisture content, new flies will hatch in approx 2-3wks.

• Culture media should remain moist but not runny. You may need to add more or less water to the cultures based on humidity levels (more water can always be added later if cultures begin to dry).

• Promptly discard any moldy cultures or any cultures contaminated by mites or flying flies.

• Start a new batch of cultures at least once a week to ensure continued production. One 32 oz culture/wk is generally sufficient for 2 adult frogs.

• Prior to feeding, dump flies into a secondary container and dust with 1:1 calcium/D3:vitamin supplements. We recommend Herpashy Calcium Plus or a 1:1 mix of Repcal Calcium plus Vitamin D3 and Herptivite. Please adhere to supplement expiration dates as potency rapidly declines over time.

Culturing D. Hydei

• Use directions for D. Melanogaster above, EXCEPT do NOT seed cultures with the first flies to hatch. Rather, wait 10-14 days after the fist flies hatch before using the culture to seed a new one. Male Hydei take longer to hatch than the females.


Preventing Mites

Mites are everywhere. They are going to get into your frog room and tanks. So, how can you keep them out of your insect cultures? Here are a few tips:

1) Always check cultures for mites, and discard any contaminated cultures immediately.

2) Microwave culture containers and media (before adding water) to kill any mites.

3) Always use the newest (and preferably never opened) producing cultures to seed new ones. This is especially effective with melanogaster as the life cycle of melanos is shorter than the mites. Thus, seeding a new culture as soon as flies emerge does not give any contaminating mites enough time to reproduce.

4) Keep cultures inside a secondary container that is lined with mite paper. To make your own mite paper, spray paper towels with miticide and let dry. I use pyrethrin/piperanyl butoxide based mite and lice spray. There are also “all natural” formulations available, but I have not tested their effectiveness. Keep in mind that “natural” or “organic” formulations are not necessarily safer than the synthetic insecticides. Case in point: batrachotoxin (dart frog toxin) is 100% natural/organic.

5) Keep older cultures in separate containers than new ones.